I haven’t been doing much sewing these past few weeks sadly. I have been working some crazy hours, like 60+ hours a week. Quite frankly, I get home and just want to veg out on the couch and watch a show or two then go to bed. That is pretty much all I have energy for. Hopefully it is almost over and I can get back to regular sewing. I have quite a few garments I am wanting to add to my winter wardrobe too.
I have been trying to find time to make myself a new coat though. I started it a little over week ago. I really needed another fall coat as the one I made previously only has 3/4 length sleeves and it gets chilly here in Indiana. I decided to try OOP Butterick 5145 view A. I really like the clean lines of this pattern. It is definitely a pattern that calls for a fun fabric. I picked a black and gray herringbone with gold threads from my stash. For the lining I picked another stash fabric, a red shimmery woven cotton.
I did underline all of my shell pieces with muslin to add a little more weight and structure to the fabric. I chose muslin over flannel because I want this to be a fall coat, so I did not want to add as much warmth as the flannel would add.
This is the right side of the collar. I accidentally sewed it in backwards with the wrong side up. The wrong side is two pieces on the bias.
I actually prefer the wrong side because the bias pieces match up perfectly at the center creating an interesting detail.
Once I got the sleeves sewn in I decided to check fit. I am glad I did. The shoulders hung off of me bad! Here is the difference in sleeves. My left sleeve is after I took the shoulder in and my right sleeve is before. I typically have this droopy shoulder problem with most patterns I sew. Most of the time I let it slide because of the casual style of the garments I sew. For a coat, though, I could not let it go. I had to fix it.
To fix this I pinned the coat while it was on me for where I needed to take it into. I marked it once I took it off. Before I cut off the excess, I stitched the sleeve down. I wanted to make sure it fit right and I didn’t take too much out. I ended up taking out 1 1/2″ at the sleeve head and tapered it down to the regular seam allowance. It does fit significantly better now.
I am not sure if I am sold on this coat just yet though. Looking at the picture of me in it I think I could have used to go down a size. It looks very loose in the waist area. I am hoping that is just because it has no buttons and maybe I had it pinned closed at the wrong spot. We’ll see. I still have the lining to sew together and attach to the shell, plus buttons and button holes. I just need to make the time to do it soon as winter has decided to come early this year.