Tag Archives: rayon jersey

Bella Sunshine Designs – Amelia Maxi Dress

Hey, sewists!  Are you on the hunt for a new summer maxi pattern?  I have a great one to share with you today!  I was lucky enough to pattern test for Bella Sunshine Designs again!  This round of testing was for the new Amelia Maxi Dress.  I was able to help test the bodice fit and provide solutions before the final test version went out to testers.  Since I enjoy pattern design it was a lot of fun to help out at this stage of development.  Pattern testing is not for everyone, but I like the process helping to fine tune the pattern and the instructions.  I made three different versions of the bodice during testing, which is why I say this process isn’t for everyone.  Those test bodices did use up 2.25 yards of random pieces of stash fabric from previous projects, so I will call that a win for me.

The Amelia pattern has a front wrap bodice with a deep V back neck and gathered front and back waistband.  Like the Sahara, with the deep scoop back, I love this deep V back neckline! For the bodice and waistband I made a size 16 and for the skirt I cut a size 24.  The skirt is gathered, so making a different size than the bodice meant I just had more gathers.  More gathers makes it fuller and a bit more flattering over my stomach.

I wanted to highlight the gathered belt on the bodice, so I used a sequin sample that has been in my stash for ages as a contrast. I didn’t have enough of the sample to cut it on the fold, so I ended up making a seam down the center front of it.  I underlined the sequin fabric since it has a mesh backing and I didn’t want my center front seam to be visible.  The seam also gave me an opportunity to stitch down my gathers in the front.  

Also, can we just take a minute to talk about the fabric I used?  The fabric is a rayon jersey knit with a navy and white sea life print.  This print!  I love it!  It has sea horses, shrimp, starfish, shells, and kelp!  I picked up 3 yards earlier this month at Jo-Ann’s for $19.47 and I used all 3 yards for this dress.  I also used 3/4 of a yard of an off white mystery knit that I got back in 2013 from a Fabric Mart mystery bundle.

That off white mystery knit was used for the bodice lining.  That is the great thing about the BSD patterns, all the bodices have linings to eliminate topstitching.  The lining also helps give a bit more stability to the bodice when using a 4-way stretch fabric like rayon jersey.

This pattern calls for using clear elastic at the waist to help support the weight of the skirt.  Instead of the clear elastic, I used white foldover elastic.  The sequin fabric I picked could not be run through my serger without breaking several needles. In fact just slowly straight stitching the gathers down I broke 2 needles.  I chose to encase the bottom edge of the waistband in elastic with a  zig zag stitch the finish it off.

Overall, I am pretty pleased with how this dress turned out.  I do enjoy the drapey quality of rayon jersey and the full gathered skirt of the Amelia really shows that off.  As for the pattern, just like the BSD Sahara, the fit is perfect.  The only alteration I had to make was shortening the length of the skirt by 4″.  Which was not a bad alteration since the pattern pieces have a lengthen/shorten line for a quick and easy process.

 

**I am an affiliate for Bella Sunshine Designs and do receive a small commission for each pattern purchased through the link in this post.  With that being said, I would not be an affiliate if I did not truly believe in the company behind the pattern. 

Show Your Stoff: Alizia Top

Hey, Sewists! I am excited to share another Zierstoff Patterns creation for the Show Your Stoff tour.  Before I talk about my new make, I have to confess that I am one of those who is completely obsessed with the HGTV show Fixer Upper.  Chip and Joanna Gaines are totally adorable, share a deep love of each other, and keep humor alive in their relationship.   Joanna’s design style has given me a newfound love of shiplap and shopping for antiques.  More than that though, I am smitten with Joanna’s personal wardrobe style.  She is down to earth and wears lots of flannel plaid and army green.  Be still my heart!  Okay, all gushing aside, she wore a navy and brown top in an episode that I loved and knew I had to make.  Hours after watching her wear this top I saw Melissa’s call out for sewing bloggers to join this tour.  I found the Alizia batwing top and knew exactly what I was going to be making.

For this top, I used all stashed fabrics! Can I tell you, I am feeling pretty confident in my stashbusting efforts so far this year. Anyways, for most of the top, I used 1.75 yards of Patriot Blue Rayon Lycra Jersey from Fabric Mart. I purchased this fabric in 2016 for $4.00 a yard. For my accent details, I used .75 yards of a tan faux suede 2-way stretch fabric. This fabric has been languishing in my stash for over 10 years! I think that it was purchased sometime between 2004 and 2005, with the intention of using it for a fairy type of renaissance festival costume. I figured that since I had not made the costume in the last 10 years that I was probably never going to make it and it was safe to use this fabric for another project. I have no idea how much I originally spent on it since it was well before started keeping track of that.

Much like the Pia Dress pattern I stitched up before, I have the same concerns for new sewists with these PDF patterns. Also like my Pia Dress, I still ended up with a great finished garment.

I did make a couple of changes to the neckband piece due to my fabric choices. Since the fabric is only a 2-way stretch I ended up cutting it two inches longer. This allowed me to be able to fit the neckline of the jersey into the neckband with l little more ease and help the neckline to lay flat without puckers. I also took a deeper seam allowance around the neck than the pattern calls for. The instructions say to use a 3/8” seam allowance, however, my neckband was not laying flat and stuck up instead. It was also a bit tight to pull on over my head. To remedy this I stitched the neckband at 5/8” This made all the world of difference. The end result was having a neckband that was just over a 1/2” wide and laid flat against the body. To help keep it laying flat, I topstitched around the neckline of the jersey. Topstitching this type of neckline is my personal preference, as I think it helps to give a cleaner look to the finished garment.

All in all, I am pretty pleased with how this top turned out.  If you have not checked out Zierstoff Patterns yet, go do it now!  Zierstoff is giving everyone 30% off your purchase.

Check out the rest of the stops on the Show Your Stoff blog tour.
Monday’s Bloggers: (direct links to Show Your Stoff posts)
Anne-Mari Sews, Inspinration, Tenille’s Thread, Sew Cucio, Embrace Everyday

Tuesday’s Bloggers: (direct links to Show Your Stoff posts)
Musings of A Seamstress, mahlicadesigns, Anna’s Heirloom Boutique, Ronda B Handmade, FABulous Home Sewn

Wednesday’s Bloggers: (direct links to Show Your Stoff posts)
Thread and Scissors, Kaleidothought, Idle Sunshine, mahlicadesigns

Thursday’s Bloggers: (direct links to Show Your Stoff posts)

Very Blissful, Sew A Piece of Joy, Zowie Zo, Nina Makes, Lulu & Celeste, Thread and Scissors.

Friday’s Bloggers: (direct links to Show Your Stoff posts)
Tales of a Tester; Anne-Mari Sews; Bless, by Tone; Life Sew Savory; Needles to Say, and Adventures with Bubba and Bug

Saturday’s Bloggers: (direct links to Show Your Stoff posts)
Musings of A Seamstress, Anna’s Heirloom Boutique, Ronda B Handmade, Glitter in my Coffee, Anne-Mari Sews, Stitches by Laura; Tea, Dust and Stitches

Simplicity 8016 review

Musings of a Seamstress - S8016

I have been slacking in blogging the last week for a couple of reasons.  First, I need to re-shoot the pictures for my pattern hack tutorial.  I am not happy with the way they turned out and have an idea to improve them.  Second, I thought I had blogged all the tops I had made so far this year.  Turns out I am wrong on the second point.  I have this and one other top photographed and I forgot all about them.  Oh my, what am I going to do with myself?

Musings of a Seamstress - S8016

This is another top that made me stop working on my PR Wardrobe Collection.  I used Simplicity 8016 in view D.  The only major change I made was to eliminate the lace cuffs on the sleeves.  I like the 3/4 of the sleeve with out it best.  Instead of using the cuff to finish the hem, I just turned and stitched the hem at a  1/2″.  I also finished out my lace neckline by adding a taffeta bias strip finish. It is one of my favorite finishing techniques that I would love to write a tutorial on.  It give such a clean and easy finished look.

The pattern runs from XXS-XXL.  According to their size chart I would fit into an XL, and based on the finished measurements that is what I made.  This pattern fits pretty true to size in that respect.  It has just enough ease in the bust to fit comfortably while flaring out perfectly through the waist.  That flare from the bust down is very flattering. It is especially helpful in hiding the tummy lumps and bumps.

Musings of a Seamstress - S8016

I was looking on Fabric Mart’s website for lace to use for my version of McCall’s 7095, when I stumbled across this lace.  I knew I had to have it and that it would be perfect for Simplicity 8016.  I bought 1 yard and ended up only using 1/4 of a yard for the yoke of this top.  I foresee more black lace yoke tops and dresses in my future!  I also used 1.25 yards of black floral rayon jersey from Girl Charlee for the body and sleeves of the top and a black taffeta bias strip for the neckline.  The jersey was one of the fabrics in my Knitfix way back in August of last year.

I am pretty pleased with the total fabric cost for this top.  At a total of $9.44, who wouldn’t be happy?!

My only issue with the top is that the black rayon jersey faded so badly after the second wash that it now appears grey instead of black.  Rayon jersey is so soft and feels like wearing secret pajamas, so it is definitely a disappointment that it did not wash well, but that has absolutely nothing to do with the pattern.

Musings of a Seamstress - S8016

I really like the contrast yoke. It is drafted at a great spot to make it flattering on a large variety of body types. I like the back yoke as well.  I can see a lot of possibilities for color-blocking this top in the future.

This pattern is very easy to put together and as such would be great for beginners.  I know I want to make some more versions of this for fall as well as try the other views.  Next time I made add a little more length to make this more of a tunic that I can wear with my super skinny jeans.  I also want to take the sleeve in just a bit as it is a little too big on me.  I just got a couple of new pairs of shorts and I would like to make the tank top view of the yoke top to go with them.

Musings of a Seamstress - S8016

And then we have this gem!  I do not know what is happening here, but it was too funny not to share.

Have you made Simplicity 8016 yet?  What did you think?