Hey, Sewists! I am so excited to help kick off the Breaking Ground Tour this week. A huge thank you to Melissa from mahlicadesigns for hosting. I jumped at the chance to be apart of this tour. Melissa has put together a great group of sewists, who are all talented. This week we are all sewing patterns from pattern designers that we have not previously tried. Our goal is to hopefully introduce some great designers and patterns to you all.
For my first round, I picked the Seamwork Magazine’s Mojave dress pattern. I have had a subscription to Seamwork for a year and had yet to make any of the patterns I got. Seamwork Magazine is the brainchild of Sarai, who also runs Colette Patterns. When you subscribe to the magazine you get two credits which can be used to purchase any of the past Seamwork patterns (1 credit = 1 pattern) or the PDF version of any Colette pattern (3 credits = 1 pattern). Seamwork patterns are quick, skill building, wardrobe filling patterns. Each magazine issue has a theme that all the articles and patterns are centered around. The Mojave dress pattern is from the August 2015 issued, the theme was vintage. Mojave is a kaftan style dress that is casual with a bit of 70’s flair. This pattern does come in sizes 0-26 (bust 33-54″). I applaud Colette and Seamwork for offering options for plus size sewists.
For this version, I decided that I wanted it to be a top instead of a dress. On me, I measured from my shoulder down to where I wanted the hem to hit. I used that measurement and added a half inch to the shoulder seam and a half inch to the hem and marked the pattern pieces at that length. That was the only pattern change that I made. The Mojave is a well-drafted pattern. All the marking and pieces matched up perfectly. I made a size 18 based on the size chart and finished garment measurements and it fits great. I did not have to make any alterations to fit once it was sewn. This makes me excited to try more of the Seamwork patterns I have printed off. I think most of my hesitation in trying them is because I am not a huge fan of PDF patterns. However, these patterns are all quick and easy with minimal pattern pieces, making it a painless process.
Let’s talk fabric! I used almost 2 yards of this gorgeous floral print chiffon. I purchased this fabric from Zinick’s Fabrics in 2015. It was practically a steal at $3.99 a yard! I love the print. I have been holding onto it for 2 years because I just wasn’t sure which pattern to use that would show off this print well. The Mojave definitely does that. There are not a lot of pattern pieces, which makes it great for showing off large prints. The front has a split yoke for the center front and a gathered lower center panel. This is great for adding a little more fullness to the waist while keeping it more fitted at the bust. I am for sure going to be making this pattern again and again. I want to make a dress version as a swimsuit cover up and a tunic version maybe adding some buttons to the yoke.
Have you tried any of the Seamwork patterns? What do you think of them?
Check out the other tour participants!
Anne-Mari Sews, Sewing By Ti, Musings of A Seamstress, Tenille’s Thread, Couturious, Embrace Everyday, Sewing A La Carte
So my husband and I went to Jo-Ann’s today because I needed to get some star patches for a costume I am working on. I thought I would pick up the 12 McCall’s patterns that were on my must have list since they were on sale. I got 4 out of the drawers and then he shut the drawer and said I could get more next month because I didn’t need to collect patterns. Anyone want a stash inhibitor named Eric?
A few days ago I posted this on the Stashbusting Sewalong group on Facebook. After posting it I realized I should probably get around to posting about the Albion coat I made for him back in February. This was a big project that I am so pleased with. It did also bust 13.5 yards of stash fabric that I bought last year. Without further ado, here is the review I posted on PR.
Version 1 is a mid-thigh length coat with patch pockets, in-seam pockets, a detachable hood tab, and flannel lining. Version 2 is a hip-length unlined jacket with a combination of felled and bound seams, in-seam pockets, and interior pockets. I made version 1.
XS-2XL. I made a Large.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Almost identical, right down to my fabric choices.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
The directions were superb! This is my first Collette Patterns make and I could not be more pleased with the written instructions and illustrations. To make it even better the sewalong is still available and compliments the instruction book well!
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the ease with which this pattern fits together. It is well drafted and well graded. My only dislike is the hood tab on version 1. I think it looks, for lack of a better term, “Becky-homecky”.
I used 3 yards of beige Melton wool from Mood Fabrics ($75), 4.5 yards of plaid shirting from Jo-Ann’s ($23), and 6 yards of beige flannel from Jo-Ann’s ($10.74). I also used 4 toggles from Jo-Ann’s ($28). Total cost of this coat $136.74. By far one of my most expensive projects.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I first made a muslin for this from the flannel, which I took apart to use as the underlining. The muslin fit perfectly!! This is rare that the sleeve length and hem length work for him as he is so tall, but this did. The only change I made was to add more depth to the hood. My husband said the problem with most men’s coats and jackets is that the hoods are not deep enough. This was confirmed by a male coworker too. To add room I added 1″ to the hood opening in addition to adding .5″ to each side of the center hood panel at the front and tapered it back down to the standard. And of course, since I didn’t like the hood tab, I took it out. I took off the tabs on the sleeves too.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Absolutely!! The sewalong even has steps for adjusting the pattern to fit a woman’s body. I for sure want to make a version for myself now. My husband also wants another version. For that one he did request adding an inside chest pocket, which I think it is a great idea.
I cannot say enough great things about this pattern. My husband has received so many compliments. One of his bosses even asked where he got it and was surprised to learn I made it. His boss thought it was London Fog. Woohoo! Let’s just hope his boss doesn’t ask for one now.